Dyes in History and Archaeology:21

Avignon and Lauris, France 2002

Editor Jo Kirby

Published: 2008



Jan Wouters, Ina Vanden Berghe, Ghislaine Richard, René Breniaux and Dominique Cardon Dye Analysis of Selected Textiles from Three Roman Sites in the Eastern Desert of Egypt: A Hypothesis on the Dyeing Technology in Roman and Coptic Egypt

Regina Hofmann-de Keijzer and Maarten R. van Bommel Dyestuff Analysis of Two Textile Fragments from Late Antiquity

Zvi C. Koren A New HPLC-PDA Method for the Analysis of Tyrian Purple Components

I. Irving Ziderman 4 The Biblical Dye Tekhelet and its Use in Jewish Textiles

Philip John, Stylianos Arghyros and Sonja Nicholson Indigo-Reducing Bacteria from the Medieval Woad (Isatis tinctoria L.) Vat: Some Aspects of their Interaction with Indigo

Anthony Pinto Woad Production in Catalonia and Roussillon at the End of the Middle Ages

Cheryl Porter The Identification of Purple in Manuscripts

Maria João Melo Missal Blue: Anthocyanins in Nature and Art

Arie Wallert and Maarten R. van Bommel Sanguis draconis, Dragon's Blood: The Use and Analysis of a Manuscript Illuminators' Colorant

Jo Kirby Some Aspects of Medieval and Renaissance Lake Pigment Technology

Anita Quye, with an Addendum by Kathryn Hallett Monitoring of Damage to Historic Tapestries (MODHT): A Newly Initiated EU Project

Yoshiko Sasaki, Masanori Sato, Mari Omura and Ken Sasaki Dye Analysis of Braids Used for Japanese Armour dating from the 14th to the 16th Century (poster presentation)

Jennifer Giaccai Chromatographic and Spectroscopic Differentiation of Insect Dyes on East Asian Paintings (poster presentation)

Valery Golikov and Zoë Zharikova A Study of Model Carminic Acid Lakes Prepared Using Cochineal, Collagen and Different Mordant Salts

Katarzyna Schmidt-Przewoźna Natural Dyes Used in Polish Workshops in the 17th and 18th Centuries

Marie Marquet Archaeology and Dyeing Traditions in West Africa (poster presentation)

Christopher J. Cooksey, Alan T. Dronsfield and Jo Kirby Chinese Green: Experimental Investigations (poster presentation)

Brian H. Davies Logwood under the Microscope

Christopher J. Cooksey and Alan T. Dronsfield Edward Schunck: Forgotten Dyestuffs Chemist?

Jana Sanyova Spectroscopic Studies (FTIR, SIMS, ES-MS) on the Structure of Anthraquinone- Aluminium Complexes (poster presentation)

François Delamare and Bernard Monasse Computation of a Visible Light Absorption Spectrum, a Semi-Empirical Quantum Mechanical Approach: Application to the Colour Determination of Alizarin Complexes in Solution or Chemisorbed onto Cellulose

Rangi Te Kanawa, Gerald J. Smith, Glenn A. Fenton, Ian J. Miller and Cara L. Dunford Evaluation of Consolidants for Black Iron Tannate-Dyed Maori Textiles (poster presentation)

Katarzyna Schmidt-Przewoźna and Witold Przewoźny In the Circle of Colour: Natural Dyeing of Flax, Silk and Wool (poster presentation)


Dyes in History and Archaeology:20

Amsterdam 2001

Editor Jo Kirby

Published: 2005



André Verhecken A Concise History of Dye Analysis

Jan Wouters Possible Future Developments in the Analysis of Organic Dyes

Maarten R. van Bommel The Analysis of Dyes with HPLC coupled to Photodiode Array and Fluorescence Detection

F. Delamare and M. Repoux Studying Dyes by Time of Flight Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry

Nobuko Shibayama, Ryohei Yamaoka and Masanori Sato Analysis of Coloured Compounds found in Natural Dyes by Thermospray Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (TSP LC-MS) and a Preliminary Study of the Application to Analysis of Natural Dyes used on Historic Textiles

Regina Hofmann-de Keijzer and Maarten R. van Bommel TLC and HPLC Analysis on Red and Violet Cotton Yarns of Indonesian Textiles

Sharon Little Dye Analyses Helped to Determine the Treatment of Two Historically Important Textiles

Gerald Smith, Rangi Te Kanawa, Ian Miller and Glen Fenton Stabilization of Cellulosic Textiles Decorated with Iron-Containing Dyes

Masako Saito, Mizuho Uehara and Kazuki Yamazaki Components of Mordants and the Silk Fabrics Treated with Them

Jiro Komiyama, Mario Suematsu, and Shojiro Ogawa Madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) and Gromwell (Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb. & Zucc.) Dyeing with Alum in the Nara Era, 8th Century, in Japan - Duplicate Mordanting

Katarzyna Schmidt-Przewoz'na Historical Dyes in Poland and their Revival (Poster presentation)

Jérôme Dupont Description and Analysis of Four Moroccan Uses of Saffron. Saffron, Body and Sexuality: Art and Ritual (Poster presentation)

Ursula Klingelfuss-Schneider Processing of Indigo Plants and Dyeing with Indigo in Japan: Impressions of a Visit in Autumn 2000

C.J. Cooksey and R.S. Sinclair Colour Variations in Tyrian Purple Dyeing

Zvi C. Koren The First Optimal All-Murex Completely Natural Purple Dyeing in the Eastern Mediterranean in a Millennium and a Half and its Colorimetric Characterization

Inge Boesken Kanold The Purple Fermentation Vat: Dyeing or Painting Parchment with Murex trunculus

C.J. Cooksey, A.T. Dronsfield and Jo Kirby Chinese Green, an Enduring Mystery

C.J. Cooksey and A.T. Dronsfield It Happened by Chance: The Discovery of Malachite Green

Brian H. Davies Dyes (and Pigments) as Food Additives (and Adulterants)

P. Fredrickx, P. Vandenabeele, J. Wouters, L. Moens and D. Schryvers The Compatibility of Transmission Electron Microscopy and Micro-Raman Spectroscopy: Application to Parchment Illustrations (Poster presentation)

Beatrice Marino, Jerre van der Horst, Tom Learner and Jaap J. Boon A Mass Spectrometric Study of the Red Naphthol PR170 as Pigment and in Acrylic Emulsion Paint (Poster presentation)


Dyes in History and Archaeology:19

Edinburgh 2000

Editor Jo Kirby

Anita Quye, Hugh Cheape, John Burnett, Ester S. B. Ferreira, Alison N. Hulme and Hamish McNab An Historical and Analytical Study of Red, Pink, Green and Yellow Colours in Quality 18th- and Early 19th-Century Scottish Tartans

Ester S. B. Ferreira, Anita Quye, Alison N. Hulme and Hamish McNab LC-Ion Trap MS and PDA-HPLC - Complementary Techniques in the Analysis of Flavonoid Dyes in Historical Textiles: The Case Study of an 18th-century Herald's Tabard

Ester S. B. Ferreira, Alison N. Hulme, Hamish McNab and Anita Quye LC-Ion Trap MS and PDA-HPLC - Complementary Techniques in the Analysis of Different Components of Flavonoid Dyes: The Example of Persian Berries (Rhamnus sp.)

Brian H. Davies Did the Medieval Illuminator Know How to Prevent Oxidative Damage?

Christoph Krekel and Andreas Burmester Pharmacy Price-Lists as a New Type of Documentary Source for Research into Historical Artists' Materials: The Münchner Taxenprojekt

Jo Kirby Sir Nathaniel Bacon's 'Pinke'

Elena Phipps Color in the Andes: Inca Garments and 17th-Century Colonial Documents

Olga Lantratova and Valery Golikov Organic Colorants in the 17th-century Parsuna of Patriarch Nikon from the State Historical Museum, Moscow

Yasuko Noda, Susumu Shimoyama and Masahiro Kasamatsu The Reproduction of a Traditional Votive Figure based on the Non-Destructive Analysis of Colorants

Jérôme Dupont An Experimental System of Analysis of the Uses of Saffron in Moroccan Culture

Masako Saito, Akiko Hayashi and Mariko Kojima Identification of Six Natural Red Dyes by High-Performance Liquid Chromatography

Harald Böhmer and Recep Karadag New Dye Research on Palmyra Textiles

John A. Fields Analysis of Dyes on Jordanian Textiles from Khirbet Qazone

Masanori Sato and Yoshiko Sasaki Blue and Purple Dyestuffs Used for Ancient Textiles

Satoshi Ushida and Mitsuyo Kawasaki Dyeing a Purple Shade Using Fresh Leaves of the Japanese Indigo Plant

Rob Withnall, Dharmesh Patel, Chris Cooksey and Ludwig Naegel Chemical Studies of the Purple Dye of Purpura pansa

Chris Cooksey and Alan Dronsfield Pre- Perkin Synthetic Routes to Purple

Gundula Voss and Carlo Unverzagt Indigos with Uncommon Properties

Peggy Fredrickx, Jan Wouters and Dominique Schryvers The Application of Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM) in the Research of Inorganic Colorants in Stained Glass Windows and Parchment Illustrations

Nicole More, Gerald Smith, Rangi Te Kanawa and Ian Miller Iron-Sensitised Degradation of Black-Dyed Maori Textiles

Annemette Bruselius Scharff and Ingelise Nielsen The Use of Cyclododecane for the Fixation of Bleeding Dyes on Paper and Textiles: A Critical Evaluation of Application Methods



Dyes in History and Archaeology:18

Brussels 1999

Editor Jo Kirby

Gilly Carr Woad, Tattooing and the Archaeology of Rebellion in Britain

Christopher J. Cooksey and Alan T. Dronsfield Adolph von Baeyer and the Indigo Molecule

Gundula Voss NMR Spectroscopy of leucoindigotins and Formation of Deuterated Indigotins

Karen Diadick Casselman The Etymology and Botany of Some European Lichen Dyes

G. W. Taylor Botanical Alternatives to Alum

Deryn O'Connor and Ann Richards The Right Mud: Studies in Mud-Tannic Dyeing in West China and West Surrey

Rangi Te Kanawa, Scott Thomsen, Gerald Smith, Ian Miller, Claude Andary and Dominique Cardon Traditional Maori Dyes

Katarzyna Schmidt-Przewozna Colour in Modern Polish Tapestry

Irina Petroviciu and Jan Wouters Analysis of Natural Dyes from Roumanian 19th- and 20th-Century Ethnographical Textiles by DAD-HPLC

Ester S. B. Ferreira, Anita Quye, Hamish McNab and Alison N. Hulme Photo-oxidation Products of Quercetin and Morin as Markers for the Characterisation of Natural Flavanoid Yellow Dyes in Ancient Textiles

Yasuko Noda and Susumu Shimoyama Non-Destructive Analysis of Ukiyo-e, Traditional Japanese Woodblock Prints, Using a Portable X-ray Fluorescence Spectrometer

Valeri Golikov The Classification of Coloured Organic Materials in Painting and Applied Arts on the Basis of Natural Dyes

Valeri Golikov and Zoë Zharikova The Use of Coloured Organic Materials based on Natural Dyestuffs in Russian Icon Painting of the 15th - 19th Centuries



Dyes in History and Archaeology:16/17

Lyon 1997 and Greenwich 1998

Editor Jo Kirby

Patrick Brenac, Emmanuelle Beaur, Patrick Choisy and Anne De La Sayette Plant Dyes: From Archaeology to Industry

Dominique Cardon and Claude Andary Yellow Dyes of Historical Importance. III: New Historical / Chemical Evidence on a Wild Mediterranean Dye-Plant, Daphne gnidium

Valery Golikov The Technology of Silk Dyeing by Cochineal II : The Influences of Types and Concentrations of Cations

Valery Golikov The Technology of Silk Dyeing by Cochineal III. The Influences of pH, Water Quality, Cream of Tartar and Oak Galls

Alan Dronsfield, Trevor Brown and Christopher Cooksey Synthetic Alizarin - the Dye that Changed History

Frances Pritchard Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949): His Use of Natural Dyes

Naceur Ayed and Abir Alatrache Traditional Recipes for Natural Dyeing of Wool in the South of Tunisia

Rowena Hill Colorants used in the Material Culture of Papua New Guinea

Jenny Balfour-Paul Dyeing with Indigo and Mud in Senegal and Mali

Abir Alatrache and Naceur Ayed The Last Indigo Dyer in Tunisia: Technology and Quality Control

Georg Stark Indigo and the 40 Robbers: Romantic Transfigurations of the Blue-Printer's Trade in Modern Society

Dr Irving I Ziderman Revival of Biblical Tekhelet Dyeing with Banded Dye-Murex (Phyllonotus trunculus): Chemical Anomalies

Christopher Cooksey and Robert Withnall Chemical Studies on Nucella lapillus

Christopher Cooksey The Synthesis and Properties of 6-Bromoindigo: Indigo Blue or Tyrian Purple? The Effect of Physical State on the Colours of Indigo and Bromoindigos

Nikki Padden, Vivian Dillon, John Edmonds, David Collins, Nerea Alvarez, Philip John The Microbiology of the Medieval Woad Vat

Recep Karadag and Harald Böhmer Dye Analyses using Derivative UV-Visible Spectrophotometry & Fibre-safe Extraction with EDTA

Tijani Karmous and Naceur Ayed Orchil Lichens of Tunisia: Chromatographic Identification and Dyeing System

Witold Nowik The Possibility of Differentiation and Identification of Red and Blue 'Soluble' Dyewoods: Determination of Species used in Dyeing and Chemistry of their Dyestuffs

Jan Wouters The Dye of Rubia peregrina. 1. Preliminary Investigations

Zvi C. Koren A Successful Talmudic-Flavored HPLC Analysis of Carthamin from Red Safflower Dyeings

Raymond White and Jo Kirby Preliminary Research into Lac Lake Pigments using HPLC/Electrospray Mass Spectrometry

Ester S. B. Ferreira, Anita Quye, Hamish McNab, Alison N. Hulme, Dr Jan Wouters and Jaap J. Boon Development of Analytical Techniques for the Study of Natural Yellow Dyes in Historic Textiles

Nicolas Wyplosz, Ron M. A. Heeren, Gerard van Rooij and Jaap J. Boon Analysis of Natural Organic Pigments by Laser Desorption Mass Spectrometry (LDMS): Preliminary Study to Spatially Resolved Mass Spectrometry

Cheryl Porter The Colouring of Alum-Tawed Skins on Late Medieval Books

Oliver Hahn Influence of Fungicides and Insecticides on Colour Materials

Vincent Daniels Degradation of Artefacts caused by Iron-Containing Dyes

Penelope Walton Rogers (Compiled by )Recent Publications concerning the Analysis and History of Dyes: Abstracts of books and papers received since 1997



Dyes in History and Archaeology:15

Manchester 1996

Editor Penelope Walton Rogers

R Hofmann The Bühler Collection of Indonesian Dyeplants

S Shimoyama, Y Noda and S Katsuhara Non-destructive Analysis of Ukiyo-e Prints

C Ben Nasr and M Metche A Study of the Tannins in Pomegranate Peel

A Quye, J Wouters and J J Boon Fading Hopes for Flavanoid Dye Analysis?

S Shimoyama and Y Noda Non-destructive Analysis of Dyes in a Chinese Brocade

C M Dutra Moresi and J Wouters HPLC Analysis of Extracts, Dyeings and Lakes, prepared with 21 species of Relbunium

M Dallon Orchil of Auvergne


Dyes in History and Archaeology:14

Amsterdam 1995

Editor P Walton Rogers

T Karmous, N Ayed, M H Fantar and J Wouters Analysis of Punic Natural Dyes: Purple Earth from Zembra and Cosmetic Make-Up from Carthage

V Daniels Maori Black Mud Dyeing of Phormium tenax Fibre

C Petrosian-Husa Changes in Colouring: Observations on the Islands of Rei Metau in Micronesia

C Andary, S Prunac and D Cardon Yellow Dyes of Historical Importance, II: Chemical Analysis of Weld and Saw-wort

E Enez and H Böhmer Ottoman Textiles: Dye Analysis, Results and Interpretation

G W Taylor Dyes on some Kashmir Shawls

J Wouters Dye Analysis of Florentine Borders of the 14th to 16th Centuries

J H Hofenk de Graaf Recycling in the 17th-Century Textile Industry

C J Cooksey TLC of the Indigoid Colorants in Shellfish Purple

G W Taylor The Arisaig Purple Expedition


Dyes in History and Archaeology:13

Edinburgh 1994

Editor P Walton Rogers

J Thompson Shellfish Purple: The use of Purpura patula pansa on the Pacific Coast of Mexico

C J Cooksey Making Tyrian Purple

S Shimoyama and Y Noda Non-Destructive Determination of Plant Dyestuffs used for Ancient Madder Dyeing, Employing a Three-Dimensional Fluorescence Spectrum Technique

Z Koren An Efficient HPLC Analysis Scheme for Plant and Animal Red, Blue and Purple Dyes

J Wouters et al Dye Analysis in a Broad Perspective: a study of 3rd- to 10th-century Coptic Textiles from Belgian Private Collections

A Wallert Identification of Flavanoid Type Yellows in Paint Samples by Solution Absorption and Fluorescence Spectrophotometry

D Cardon Yellow Dyes of Historical Importance: Beginnings of a Long-Term Multi-Diciplinary Study; Part 1

T C Smout Imports of Dyestuffs into Late 17th-Century Scotland: the Customs Records as a Source

J Balfour-Paul The Woad Trade of Toulouse and The Second International Conference on Woad, Indigo and Other Natural Dyes


Dyes in History and Archaeology:12

Brussels 1993

Editor P Walton Rogers

F Sorber Furnaces in the Jungle: Gambier in West Sumatra

J Balfour-Paul Indigo in South-West China

J Wouters Dye Analysis of Chinese and Indian Textiles

G W Taylor Red Dyes in Indian Painted and Printed Cotton Textiles

D McJunkin Cochineal and Lac: a Simple Method for Estimating Mixtures

A Verhecken Experiments with the Dyes from European Purple-producing Molluscs

J Sanyova and J Wouters Painting Techniques of Polychromed Antwerp Altarpieces

S Shimoyama and Y Noda Non-destructive Three-Dimensional Fluorescence Technique


Dyes in History and Archaeology:11

York 1992

Editor P Walton Rogers

J Balfour-Paul The International Conference on Woad in Erfurt

N T Wills Woad growing and manufacture in the Lincolnshire and Cambridgeshire Fens and in Northamptonshire

L R Green and V D Daniels The use of N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NM2P) as a solvent for the analysis of indigoid dyes

R Withnall, R J H Clark, C J Cooksey and M A M Daniels Non-destructive, in situ identification of indigo/woad and shellfish purple by Raman microscopy and visible reflectance spectroscopy

Z C Koren Methods of dye analysis used at the Shenkar College Edelstein Center in Israel

F Stamati Plant and animal dyes formerly used in Albania

J Wouters and G de Craeker Analysis of dyes and technique of a 20th-century Iranian carpet from the city of Nain

J Kirby and D Saunders Light-induced colour change in red and yellow organic pigments - work in progress (an abstract)


Dyes in History and Archaeology:10

National Gallery London 1991

Editor P Walton Rogers

M L Ryder Was the Golden Fleece really coloured?

M Whiting Identification of flavones and flavanols on a microgram scale

O Elsner Solution to the enigmas of dyeing Tyrian purple and biblical tekhlet

J Wouters A new method for the analysis of blue and purple dyes in textiles

D Cardon New information on the medieval woad vat

S Ushida Indigo dyeing in Japan

G W Taylor The chemistry of madder dyeings: application of semi-quantitative TLC

F Pritchard Dyes on some 16th- and 17th-century textiles excavated in London

A Timár-Balázsy and A Szôke The original colour scheme of embroidered cushions from Hódmezôvásárhely

A Quye and J Wouters An application of HPLC to the identification of natural dyes

B Guineau Experiments in the identification of colorants in situ: possibilities and limitations


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